Training Tip for Dogs and Cats

Training Tip for Dogs and Cats

Timing is everything! Make sure you reward them verbally within half a second of the desired behaviour. The same goes with reprimand; if they have stopped the behaviour there is no point reprimanding them afterwards.

Dogs and cats learn by ‘direct association’ if the behaviour is rewarded with attention it is more likely to be repeated. Some behaviours, such as jumping up at you, or vocalising to be fed should be met with inattention (i.e. ignored) but you must be consistent.

Training hints: Look or Watch

While we are on the topic of training lets look at how you can teach your dog to ‘look’ (you may even want to try it with a cat, good luck!)

Teaching your dog to make eye contact with you on command can encourage your dog to look to you for direction. It can also help to hold their focus when out walking & training. What a dog is looking at you they are giving you their full attention. To start this exercise hold a treat up near your eye (your dog should be sitting and you should be standing). Ask your dog to ‘look’ or ‘watch’. You will notice their eyes will focus on the treat but then (sometimes it takes a bit) they will look to your eyes (as if to say “are you going to give it to me!?!”). When they make eye contact reward them (verbally such as “good”) and then give them the treat. Repeat the process a number of times. Try not to repeat the command (just wait patiently to reward them when they look to you). You may find with some dogs it is easier to judge when they are looking if you hold the treat out and to the side away from your eye; for other dogs they may perform better when the treat is closer. Over time you should be able to hand gesture them to look toward your eyes & then reward from your other hand or pocket. If you have an aggressive dog, speak to your vet or animal behaviourist before trying this exercise.

Dogs are better than children. Why you may ask?

Dogs don’t ask…

Dogs aren’t embarrassed to be cuddled in public

Dogs don’t ask for money (just a bit of attention)

Most dogs aren’t fussy eaters

Dogs usually come when they are called….

Its BBQ time!

It’s great to be outdoors with your pets enjoying leisure time together but watch the hazards of barbeques. Apart from the obvious hazards of jumping up and burning paws on a hot barbeque or stealing burning hot food there are also a few other hazards. The main one is onion toxicity. Onions should be a human only food. For dogs and cats it can be quite dangerous; leading to a type of anaemia. Cats are even more susceptible. Small amounts over long periods or a larger amount at once can be quite damaging. Cooked, raw and dehydrated onion should not be fed to dogs or cats. There is no benefit to feeding onion and it certainly has the potential to cause harm. For more advice speak to your vet.

Toxic foods

In the past we have talked about a number of toxic foods. One I haven’t mentioned before is Xylitol. Xylitol is commonly found in sugar free gum and lollies. It has been linked with low blood sugar in dogs and can be very harmful, even in quite small amounts. Make sure any products are kept out of reach of your animal companions; Apart from dogs it is still not clear as to what species can be harmed so just to be safe make sure it is out of reach.

For more information on training and behaviour see the ‘free articles’ page on our website. Just let us know what you would like to see and we can work on it!  The free articles on this page include;

Behaviour of older pets

DISOBEDIENCE; Hints and Tips

Hints and Tips When Moving House with Your Pet

Overview of Fears, Phobias and Anxieties in Dogs and Cats

Pulling on the lead

Separation anxiety

The loss of a pet

Training for dogs: The importance of trust.

Please let us know if you have any requests!

For updates on all our regular articles and posts like us on facebook! (https://www.facebook.com/clevercreaturespage)

Free Book Offer

Are you looking to bring a puppy into your family? Are you the proud new owner of a puppy? Or would you like to know more about bite inhibition? Then go to the link below as these two free book downloads are still available; “Before you get your puppy” and “After you get your puppy.” Both by Dr Ian Dunbar and both are great books. Follow the link below or cut and paste into your browser. http://www.dogstardaily.com/free-downloads

Do you own a pet business or any business for that matter?

A new online business directory has just been launched and we love it so much that we have become an affiliate. Why is it so great? Apart from it being free, it is a local business directory for people who want to be found locally (within 20 meters) to globally. We like to think of it as a cross between google and the yellow pages (but better). When you register you can enter up to 250 characters to describe your business and of course its keyword linked so your business description can get you found. It’s free to register so if you’d like to register then click on the register now link. For those who want to increase their exposure online there is also an option for an advertising page ($70 per year & you can update it every day if you want) or a direct website link ($250/yr). It’s just been launched so you’ll be hearing more very soon as it launches fully; look out for Uglii! (Unique geographic listing for industry). Although we are registering businesses in the animal care industry any business can register via our site. See clevercreatures.biz for more information.

Prize winners. Our latest winners for July, August & September!

The following readers please reply to this email to claim your prize (or contact us via our webpage). These are subscribers who have also provided their postal address at the time of subscribing to enter our monthly prize draws. When you reply please give your full name so we can identify you, can you also let us know what breed of dog or cat you have. We will have all other details on record, including your postal address to which we will send your prize once you have contacted us.

Jane H with Gizmo & Biko

Courtney B with Missy, Venus, Chico & Angel

Sarah G with Lachie

Until Next time, keep those tails wagging!

From Sarah, Remy, Cayos and the team at Clever Creatures

Clever Creatures Pty Ltd
PO Box 427

Byford, Western Australia 6122

Advertisements

REGISTER YOUR BUSINESS FOR FREE

Uglii is a much better way to be seen online! Just to let you know that the Uglii global online business directory has now been launched. We have become affiliated with Uglii to assist those in the animal and pet industry to register their business. Registration is FREE! It’s just being launched now and we are encouraging all businesses to register and benefit from the new launch. http://www.clevercreatures.biz

PULLING ON THE LEAD: LOOSE LEAD WALKING AND HEEL (Updated)

The theory behind the loose lead walking is that if a dog pulls on the lead it is a reward to move forward, therefore it is important that you don’t allow your dog to pull you forward when they pull on the lead (As the dog is getting what is wants by pulling, not walking nicely).

Each time he/she pulls forward on the lead you need to stop walking. It is helpful if you are prepared to stop walking by watching the tension within the lead. As you see the lead go tight prepare yourself to stop (This gives much faster and more accurate feedback). There is no need to say anything as you stop walking. When the lead relaxes you can walk on. Eventually he / she will realise that pulling on the lead is not rewarded.

Now, you’re thinking; but I’m not going to get very far and how on earth do I exercise my dog?

2 options (plus more instruction below): When using a short lead you could change directions when he/she pulls on the lead. This way you can keep moving and exercise your dog without allowing him/her to pull you forward. I find this works well, especially since a dog is usually pulling towards something so by walking away it removes the reward; when the dog is walking nicely you can head back in the original direction.

The 2nd option is to use a long lead for exercise walks (eg 5meters) or even better; have a solid recall so you can have your dog off lead. Long leads are risky to use when around other dogs and people due to the risk of getting tangled. Also pups can build up speed and have a nasty shock when they get to the end of the lead or are pulled back & this could cause injury. It’s best to wait until your dog has improved on lead before using an extendable lead. Unless it is a good quality lead and you use a different harness or collar then you may delay your dog’s progress if you allow them to pull forward.

Loose lead walking and ‘Heel’

To build on the loose lead walking is the heel command: the heel command will encourage your dog to walk alongside of you.

To start with the heel command, have your dog walking on the lead at your left side (this is usually the side away from the traffic). With a treat (or toy) in your left hand hold it in front your dog to help to lure him / her in the correct position. I generally hold the lead in my right hand or have the lead over my right wrist and lightly hold it and guide it with my left hand. Do not wrap the lead around your wrist as it can be unsafe if your dog lunges ahead and pulls you off-balance. If your dog jumps up at the treat (or toy) as you are practising the heel command just ignore this, but ensure he/ she cannot take the treat from you. Verbally reward your dog as he/she walks nicely at your side. Occasionally give the treat. The ideal time to reward your dog is when he/she is looking forward or at you and relaxed.

To encourage your dog to walk correctly on the lead it is important to combine the above two techniques. If you are having trouble with this or if your dog is too strong for you then you may wish to look at a walking harness, head collar or training collar (like a limited slip collar). A walking harness (provided it is anti-pull and not a regular harness or car harness) is useful for small to medium dogs and will help you get faster results, however you should still apply the same training techniques. The head collars give good results for large or strong dogs but they take some getting used to & the dog may play up a bit when they are first used. The training collars are useful and easy to use but once again the training still needs to be done to ensure long term results.

SUNSHINE LIVER BROWNIES; A great liver treat for training!

Ingredients;

450gm liver

1 cup flour

½ cup cornmeal (also called polenta)

2 eggs     garlic (parsley optional)

Method;

Puree all of the above in food processor.  Pour onto an oven sheet /tray lined with foil which has been oiled.  Mixture will be thick.  Press flat and as even as possible.  Bake at 200 degrees Celsius for 20 mins.  Brownies are done when pink has gone.  Do not overbake or they will crumble.  You can also add parsley flakes or fresh parsley (I always add parsley). Once cool slice into pieces small enough to use as training treats.

With a big thank you to Honey from the German Shepherd Club of WA (Southern River) for allowing me to distribute this recipe. Cayos my pup loves these treats; I cut them into very small pieces to use for training and store any leftovers in the freezer.

The Full Moon and behaviour

I’m interested to hear if any research has been done on dog behaviour & training experiences around the time of a full moon.

I find training classes are generally more hectic and scattered around the time of a full moon; the dogs seem to be unsettled and in many cases more reactive.

When I was consulting I recall having more calls about aggression and dogs bites too.

Does anyone know of any research done or statistics on this? (or interesting papers to read?)

Also what experiences have other trainers and behaviourists had?

Thanks! Sarah

D-TER Information and FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

Information taken directly from the D-Ter brochure (By Lorac Australia) and other FAQ’s given by Sarah of Clever Creatures.

WHAT IS D-TER?

A highly effective and proven animal and bird repellent, fully registered for use against all animals and birds.

IS IT SAFE?

It is a very safe product. It is not considered a poison and there is no with holding period. It is immediately effective once dried, has no unpleasant or revolting odour and can be sprayed almost indiscriminately.

ANY EXCEPTIONS?

D-TER should not be applied in bright sunshine on sensitive plants (e.g. ferns, primula etc.) to prevent any chance of scorching.

HOW DOES D-TER WORK?

D-TER has been found to be effective in repelling all species of vertebrates against which it has been evaluated. Its mode of action is both scientific and clever. D-TER repels by creating a feeling within the creatures that the treated area is unsafe and threatening. This is reinforced when they quickly leave and the feeling disappears resulting in the development of a “learned aversion response”. The advantage of the development of this response is that not only are the creatures harmlessly repelled but the effect lasts far, far longer than the D-TER itself.

HOW LONG DOES D-TER LAST?

D-TER is generally dissolved in water and applied as a spray but can be used as a dust, for example as a seed dressing. It is important to note that after spraying D-TER, its effectiveness begins when it dries under normal conditions 1-2 hours. Published evidence from overseas and local experience suggests that generally D-TER, provided it has dried before dew or rain, can be expected to last for 8-12 weeks. It will usually survive light showers of rain with the effectiveness again returning when it dries. However, after consistent heavy rain, if the problem recommences, re-spraying is recommended.

DOES D-TER STAIN?

Local and overseas experience (30 years) has shown to date no staining or untoward effect on paintwork metals or plastics. For indoor use on furniture or carpet for example, to prevent cat scratching or pet fouling first test spray on an unseen area (as a normal precaution) or alternatively spray on pieces of cloth. Allow to dry and pin or lay on affected areas.

HOW LONG HAS D-TER BEEN IN USE?

D-TER has been used in Australia since 1985 and is fully registered. The product has been cleared in the U.K for agriculture, forestry, veterinary use on food crops and in food storage practice. In addition to home garden uses and is widely used throughout Europe and elsewhere. D-TER has been undergoing continuous development and “fine tuning” for over 35 years and is the most effective to date for general use with increased olfactory effect and improved adhesion for longer life.

CAN D-TER PREVENT BIRD FOULING ON MARINE CRAFT?

D-TER can be used to protect moored yachts, motor c cruisers and marine areas from fouling by roosting seabirds, including seagulls, cormorants (shags), herons, pigeons and swallows. A new approach to this constant nuisance with attendant health risks, time consuming clean-ups and expensive staining. Double strength sprays and double soaked and dried pieces of cloth hauled aloft as ‘pennants’ are just some of the innovative ways D-TER can be used in problem situations.

ON TWO VERY WINDY DAYS IN THE LAST TWO MONTHS MY DAUGHTER’S SUCCULENTS HAVE BEEN ATTACKED BY COCKATOOS, NOT AT ANY OTHER TIME EVEN THOUGH THEY ARE AROUND. WE WOULD LIKE TO KNOW HOW OFTEN YOU HAVE TO SPRAY WITH D-TER AND IF IT HAS BEEN FOUND TO BE A SUCCESSFUL DETERRENT TO COCKATOOS.

I suggest the D-TER is sprayed twice over a day or two (best to make it up as you need it) and then every 6-8 weeks if required. It is registered for use with all birds and is effective against cockatoos.

WE LIVE IN QLD. AND HAVE A PROBLEM WITH BIRDS (MOSTLY MAGPIES & BUTCHER BIRDS) SITTING ON A BACK TIMBER FENCE & GATE AND MAKING A TERRIBLE MESS WITH THEIR CONSTANT WHITE DROPPINGS DOWN THE TIMBER. WOULD YOUR PRODUCT D-TER ANIMAL AND BIRD REPELLENT BE SUITABLE? OR CAN YOU SUGGEST ANOTHER ALTERNATIVE?

If this product didn’t help, I don’t know of other products available for bird repellents. You can purchase sensor activated products, but they are quite expensive. We have very good success with this product, but personally I haven’t tried it for birds. I generally suggest people trial a small area first and repeat the application after a day.

I AM INTERESTED IN USING THE REPELLENT ON FRUIT TREES AND GRAPE VINES. DOES THE PRODUCT NEED TO BE REAPPLILED AFTER A RAIN?

No. D-TER doesn’t have to be reapplied after rain, though prolonged or heavy rain might have voided the effectiveness. Kindly refer to the section “How long does D-Ter last?” above for more information.

I WOULD LIKE TO ORDER USING CREDIT CARD VIA PHONE 2KG D-TER. I DON’T LIKE USING CREDIT CARD ON THE WEB DUE TO SECURITY ISSUES. COULD SOMEONE CALL ME PLEASE TO PROCEED WITH ORDER?

YES. We can call you on the phone and put through the order. We can enter your details onto the website as we speak and you will then get a receipt that will be sent automatically. We will have the transaction record on file for reference. We can also chose the option of chq/money order or direct deposit if you have concerns over credit card security. Ideally you can place your order & in the box next to cheque / money order write ‘please call me for cc payment’ This will speed up the process.

DOES D-TER MOVE RABBITS ON HARMLESSLY IF SPRAYED NEAR THERE BURROW, OR JUST STOP THEM CHEWING THE VEGGIES?

Generally, with all animals I suggest you move them off slowly; i.e. start on the most important area (in this case your veggie garden) as this will discourage them as they feel unsafe in the area. I then suggest you gradually increase the areas you wish to move them from before finally spraying around the burrow. As they may already move off if their normal territory / range if it seems to be coming unsafe.

In addition to this I would suggest you water your vegies in the morning; that way they are more likely to be dry at dusk when the rabbits start to come out. D-TER isn’t effective when wet as the animal can’t smell it, however it becomes effective once it dries out, to increase the effectiveness spray the veggie gardens and around the immediate area as well. This product is safe to use on edible crops but see instructions for full details.

WE HAVE PURCHASED D-TER. WE HAVE FOLLOWED THE INSTRUCTIONS AS PER THE PAMPHLET, AND IT IS HAVING NO EFFECT ON THE ROSES/ KANGAROOS. IS THERE ANY REASON YOU CAN SUGGEST FOR THIS?

We’ll give a few suggestions and if that is not what you think may be contributing to the failure of the D-TER with the kangaroos then please give Michael of Lorac (the manufacturer) a call (02 9589 0703).

Normally it is very effective on Kangaroos; I assume they are wild and not hand raised? If they were hand raised or without that same level of fear (than most native animals) then I’d suggest stronger dilutions and additional deterrent strategies (similar to that of dogs and cats).

If it was excessively wet over there then this can reduce the effectiveness of the D-TER when dry; so if they kangaroos are coming at night and the area is wet (or has recently been reticulated) then it wouldn’t Deter them in the same way as they cannot smell the product (and therefore there is not discomfort associated with being in the area). If this was the case if would take longer for the animals to build up a negative association.

If you hadn’t already then increase the dose as used for dogs and cats. I’d widen the area around the roses with the D-TER spray & more frequent but regular sprays are more effective than just spraying more. Roses seem to be quite a delicacy for kangaroos and possums so I assume for a number of animals it is worth the risk; especially if there isn’t anything else around the put them off; If you can try and put up a temporary barrier so that it isn’t such an easy meal for them. In addition to this lighting, sensor lighting or motion activated devices may also put them off visiting the area.

If the kangaroos were deterred to start with and have started to come back I’d suggest a few more applications. For stubborn animals then repeat the spray a day apart and then again a few days later if needed & use the dose as per use with dogs and cats.

WE MANAGE A COMMUNITY STORE IN REMOTE WA AND HAVE A PROBLEM WITH COMMUNITY MEMBERS DOGS COMING IN THE STORE OR CONGREGATING BY THE DOOR.

I hope it can help you with the problem of visiting dogs. Just make sure you use the strength as directed and more frequent applications are better than trying stronger dilutions. When I used this product by my gate the problem almost seemed to get worse before it got better in that the next day after applying it a dog defecated by the gate (which is why I was using it) and then after another application the problem stopped.

Also make sure that there is no reinforcement (or reward) for the dogs to enter (tempting smells or products to steal near to the door) and that the feeling of uncertainly created by the product is met with correction for the dogs to go away. Hopefully people don’t litter food near to the door as of course the temptation for a free feed may be worth the ‘risk’ of danger. It’s definitely worth spraying the product just inside the store as well as the entrance (And if the entranced is washed regularly then spray around the door frames and nearby furniture etc. (just test areas first that they are not marked with whitish areas from the spray.

***

To order D-TER Repellent, visit our products page or click here.

PULLING ON THE LEAD: LOOSE LEAD WALKING AND HEEL

The theory behind the loose lead walking is that if a dog pulls on the lead it is a reward to move forward, therefore it is important that you don’t allow your dog to pull you forward when they pull on the lead (As the dog is getting what is wants by pulling, not walking nicely).

Each time he/she pulls forward on the lead you need to stop walking. It is helpful if you are prepared to stop walking by watching the tension within the lead. As you see the lead go tight prepare yourself to stop (This gives much faster and more accurate feedback). There is no need to say anything as you stop walking. When the lead relaxes you can walk on. Eventually he / she will realise that pulling on the lead is not rewarded.

Now, you’re thinking; but I’m not going to get very far and how on earth do I exercise my dog?

2 options (plus more instruction below):  When using a short lead you could change directions when he/she pulls on the lead. This way you can keep moving and exercise your dog without allowing him/her to pull you forward.

The 2nd option is to use an extendable lead for exercise walks; I use a short lead for training and walking along the road & use an extendable lead when down at the park etc. I give my pup a warning word when I am putting the break on (stop) and also when he is about to reach the end of the lead. Provided the extendable lead is of good quality and is the correct size for your dog it should provide little resistance & therefore not contribute to pulling. The extendable lead allows more freedom and exercise in between training your dog to walk correctly on the lead. When using the extendable lead it is still important to ensure the dog is not pulling forward when they get to the end of the lead or when the lead is locked in at a short length.

Loose lead walking and ‘Heel’

To build on the loose lead walking is the heel command: the heel command will encourage your dog to walk alongside of you.

To start with the heel command, have your dog walking on the lead at your left side (this is usually the side away from the traffic). With a treat (or toy) in your left hand hold it in front your dog to help to lure him / her in the correct position. I generally hold the lead in my right hand or have the lead over my right wrist and lightly hold it and guide it with my left hand. Do not wrap the lead around your wrist as it can be unsafe if your dog lunges ahead and pulls you off-balance. If your dog jumps up at the treat (or toy) as you are practising the heel command just ignore this, but ensure he/she cannot take the treat from you. Verbally reward your dog as he/she walks nicely at your side. Occasionally give the treat. The ideal time to reward your dog is when he/she is looking forward and relaxed.

To encourage your dog to walk correctly on the lead it is useful to combine the above two techniques. If you are having trouble with this or if your dog is too strong for you then you may wish to look at a walking harness, head collar or training collar (like a limited slip collar). A walking harness (provided it is anti-pull and not a regular harness or car harness) will help you get faster results however you should still apply the same training techniques. The head collars give good results for large or strong dogs but they take some getting used to & the dog may play up a bit when they are first used. The training collars are useful and easy to use but once again the training still needs to be done to ensure long term results.

More free articles on our Free Articles page. Visit and get helpful and valuable tips for your dogs now!

Notes by Sarah McMullen of Clever Creatures April 2011